An Enlightening Iranian Sojourn

  

Veena Suman

 

 

Visiting Iran was a dream that I had nursed since my college days. A friend had relocated to India from Iran, or Persia, as it was called by some, after the turmoil that followed the overthrowing of Shah Mohammad Reza Pahlavi. However, a deep nostalgia for Iran was palpable in her conversation that never failed to intrigue me! Perhaps the intensity of her longing transferred itself to my subconscious mind.

Four decades later, having traversed more than sixty countries, when an opportunity came to visit Iran, I seized it with both hands. My plan to visit Iran had generated a lot of opposition from my family and friends, no doubt influenced by negative reports in the media. It took all my powers of persuasion to convince them that I was certain to return safely after my fourteen-day sojourn!

It was   thus with a great sense of excitement that I reached the airport a few days later. Nothing could have prepared me, however, for the look of incredulity on the face of the official at the immigration counter. His question of "Why Iran?" took me completely by surprise. After answering a lot of questions, I did manage to convince him that I was visiting Iran by choice. Three filled passports helped in assuring him that I suffered from extreme wanderlust!

Iran has a certain dress code for women. Hijab is not compulsory, but no tight-fitting attire is allowed. Only full sleeved outfits can be worn, and hair has to be covered at all times. During the flight, it was amusing to see how a group of informally dressed college girls, returning from India, transformed into head covered, full sleeved ones, when the plane was about to land at IKA Airport!

As a consequence of its location in Asia, Iran, or the Islamic Republic of Iran as it is now called, has always been a country with a geostrategic importance. It has been home to some of the oldest civilisations in the world, the footprints of which are visible throughout the country. The rich cultural legacy manifests itself in myriad ways not only in art, architecture, poetry, philosophy and in its historical heritage, but also in its cuisine.

A defining feature of the Iranian identity is the high degree of safety that women enjoy. At Yazd, I was met by a young friend who had driven a very long distance to meet me. Reminiscing about her hometown, our conversation lasted well into late evening. Apprehensive about her safety, yet not wanting to sound offensive, I tentatively suggested that since it would be nightfall soon, she might think of returning. Putting me at ease, she informed me that as a woman, she felt very safe in Iran. Crimes that violate the dignity of women were dealt with swiftly and harshly. This was so contrary to the picture that had been painted by the international media!

An unforgettable evening was spent having dinner with a family at Kashan. A big carpet was taken out from their car and spread on the sidewalk. Aromatic dishes were laid out, along with the ubiquitous ‘sheesha’ (hookah or waterpipe) ... which is enjoyed by both men and women. Much to my surprise, this kind of dining seemed to be a common practice, as the sidewalks soon filled up with other families, enjoying their evening meal in a similar manner. It was a very unusual sight for me...no beggars, no street urchins, and no police to mar the atmosphere. The all-pervading aroma of the rose water distillers made this a surreal experience....an inexpensive and informal way to enjoy an evening meal!

There is evident warmth of the locals for Indians. In spite of language being a barrier, ladies would smile, wave, and pose happily for group photographs. At ‘chaikhanas’, in restaurants, or in the local eateries that one visited for the delectable cuisine, customers would happily wait while ensuring that we were served first! This interaction also helped solve something that had been puzzling me ever since I reached Teheran. I had seen many women with bandages on their noses. It seems this was to correct a minor imperfection of Mother Nature...Straight noses were the current rage, and a minor surgery went a long way in ensuring that!

It is an indisputable fact that no country in the world today remains untouched by its political environment, and Iran is no exception. However, sanctions and restrictions imposed on the country do not impact the tourist in any way. The idea generated of the country being a police state seems slightly unreal while travelling through the country. Even the mandatory head cover does not seem restrictive after a couple of days. The fact that head scarves are available in such pretty colours and designs could be one of the reasons!

 

It is surprising to see that there are no vacant plots of land in urban areas. Considering them to be an eyesore, the government undertakes their maintenance till the time the owner has the financial means to undertake construction on the land, after which he is required to repay the authorities. Rows of potted plants are used for beautifying empty patches along roadsides. Theft of even a single pot, results in the culprit, once caught, having to bear the entire expenditure entailed in buying all the plants!

 

ran is a shopper's delight. Markets teem with beautiful carpets and rugs, local handicrafts, fresh and dried fruit, spices and local sweets, and the world famous saffron. There is an abundance of fresh fruit and vegetables. An interesting story told by old timers in Teheran is how motor cars were banned from blowing their horn near a particular patch that grew melons, as their skin was so tender that they would burst because of the sound of the horn! 

A sojourn of 14 days in a country is really not enough to imbibe its essence. However, in a small way it did help me to understand why my college friend missed Iran so much.